RESTAURANT: Tex-Mex fare stands out at Colorado Grill
By Kate Schuman
LITTLE ROCK — HOT SPRINGS - Colorado Grill seems to suffer from a slight identity crisis. The downtown Hot Springs restaurant proclaims that its specialties are steaks, ribs and “Mexican originals,” and the menu also includes burgers, wraps, “Kbobs,” and pasta. No employee we asked seemed to know why the place was named for Colorado. Is such variety characteristic of Rocky Mountains cuisine? We aren’t sure.
Based on our server’s account, the menu’s first three pages and fellow patrons’ plates, we learned that most people come to Colorado Grill for Tex-Mex. And with a few exceptions, we were pleased with the food’s flavor and freshness.
The expansive split-level restaurant’s booths, dim lighting, large bar and many televisions give the place a sports-bar feel. The brick walls are decorated with photographs of old Hot Springs, Pancho Villa and horses.
Immediately upon sitting down, warm tortilla chips arrived with individual dishes of chunky red salsa and a sassy salsa verde to share. Fresh cilantro and quite a kick of spice were prevalent in both, as was more sugar than we’re used to. While the sweetness initially added a nice tang, it became too strong the more we ate.
The blended margaritas, $5 for 12 ounces (or $3.75 during Happy Hour, 3-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday) and $14 for 32 ounces, were extremely sweet with a thick, smoothie-like consistency, and we didn’t detect much tequila. On one visit the peach and strawberry versions even came drizzled with syrup. Next time we might choose from six Mexican beers, domestic beers,or a few wines by the glass and save a margarita for dessert. Daiquiris and pina coladas are also available.
Starters include guacamole and five kinds of cheese dip, all for $4.99. We tried the Blanco, the white cheese version. While it was tasty, it became thick too quickly and the cumin was a bit overpowering. A better choice was the bean dip, refried beans covered with white and yellow cheese and topped with a generous portion of jalapenos. The other dips are Spinach, made from white cheese and spinach; Queso, which is yellow cheese; and Queso with Beef, yellowcheese with spicy beef.
On both occasions, entrees arrived piping hot within 10 minutes.
For $11.29, we tried the Sampler, which comes with chicken or beef flautas and taquitos, along with cheese quesadillas, beef nachos and the Blanco dip. Ordering the dish to share, along with fajitas, proved to be too much food for two hungry people, although we enjoyed its variety. The flautas and taquitos, which differ only in size and type of tortilla, were crispy and delicious when dipped in the Blanco or salsa. The nachos with beef, chili, beans, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and jalapenos were buried under the other items, so they might have tasted better if they weren’t soggy by the time we found them. The Sampler would probably be ideal as an appetizer for a big group.
The Shrimp Fajitas, $14.29, arrived sizzling, with a side plate of slightly brown guacamole, a pile of bright orange cheddar cheese, pico de gallo, refried beans and warm tortillas. The butterflied and grilled shrimp were small but surprisingly firm, fresh and flavorful. The sauteed onions, red bell peppers and tomatoes that came with the shrimp were also fresh and plentiful. However, the three tortillas were not enough for the 12 shrimp, vegetables and beans. Steak, chicken, vegetarian or “mix” fajitas are also available, as well as Fajitas for Two and The Ultimate Fajita, which includes beef, chicken, shrimp and BBQ St. Louis Ribs,both for $23.29.
Of three grilled chicken breast menu items, all $11.29, we chose the Poblano Chicken, topped with Monterey Jack cheese, poblano peppers, onions and mushrooms with Mexican rice and Southwest vegetables. The chicken breast was tender and juicy, and although the peppers weren’t extremely spicy, the combination of vegetables and cheese were a superb complement to the chicken. A companion called the well-matched side of julienne bell peppers, zucchini, carrots and red onions too buttery.
The Pueblo Platter, $8.29,was a bland choice in comparison to other entrees. It included a cheese enchilada with chili, a small beef burrito, a beef taco, rice and beans. The enchiladas were good, but came blended in a heap of cheese, beef and sauce. The thin, crispy beef taco reminded us of elementary school cafeteria fare.
Service was mostly attentive and brisk, except when we ordered dessert, which took longer than the entrees to arrive. On both occasions, the servers brought the check before clearing any plates. In fact, our plates were still there when we left and we spotted several empty tables full of plates.
The dessert menu is minimal: just sopapillas, fried ice cream or a scoop of ice cream. The sopapillas ($2.99), fried dough pockets coated in cinnamon and sugar with a honey dipping sauce, were decent: light, chewy and crispy all at once, but with an overly sweet honey sauce. The “fried ice cream” ($3.99) ended up being a ridiculously large portion of vanilla ice cream in a flaky tortilla shell topped with cornflakes, chocolate sauce and whipped cream.
Maybe that’s what they called fried ice cream in Colorado, but it’s not what we were expecting.
Colorado Grill Address: 320 Ouachita Ave., Hot Springs Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday Cuisine: Tex-Mex, Steaks, Sandwiches Credit cards: V, MC, AE, D Alcoholic beverages: Full Bar Reservations: Parties of 10 or more Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 623-7992, www.coloradogril landbar.com
This article was published Friday, June 27, 2008.
Weekend, Pages 73 on 06/27/2008
